For A Family In Exile Aidilfitri Food Is A Window To Home

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Bushra Kanwal, her husband Naseer Ahmed, and their three children breaking fast together as a family.KUALA LUMPUR: Every time Bushra Kanwal takes a bite of yakhni pulao, a dish from her native Pakistan, she feels herself transported back in time to the kitchen where she, her sister, and their mother are busy cooking for Aidilfitri.
Her family would usually serve the aromatic beef dish on the second day of the festivities. But these days, Bushra cooks it even during Ramadan to help soothe her homesick heart.
Bushra, her husband Naseer Ahmed, and their children have lived a life of exile in Malaysia as refugees. The family are Ahmadi Muslims, a sect that has effectively been banned by Pakistan since 1974 and not accepted as Muslims because of their beliefs. The community is barred from participating in Islamic activities.
In Pakistan, Bushra’s family faced abuse and discrimination on a daily basis.
Sitting down with FMT, she and Naseer told of how non-Ahmadis would throw large stones and other objects at their house.
“If the door were to break, they could have come in. I called the police asking for help. They said, ‘We can send a police mobile, but they have no permission to save you’,” she recalled.
In 2016, Naseer was held captive by unknown people for 11 days. He managed to get away, after which the family decided to uproot and relocate.
Ramadan and Aidilfitri have not been the same since they fled Pakistan, but Bushra is grateful her family is safe in Malaysia.
The only drawback is how low-key the family’s Raya celebrations tend to be.
“We have some community friends over here but we’re too shy to go and disturb them. So usually we just stay home,” Bushra said.
“In Pakistan, we would go for Aidilfitri prayers together with our relatives and visit their homes; but in Malaysia, we have no family.”
A colourful bowl of seviyan, a popular Pakistani dessert almost every family prepares dutifully for Aidilfitri.None of this stops Bushra from serving up a feast for the festivities. Aside from yakhni pulao, she also prepares seviyan, a sweet treat made with roasted vermicelli, milk and sugar.
“It is the first thing the men eat when they return home from praying at the mosque on the first day of Aidilfitri.”
Bursa also makes vegetable samosas, chicken kebabs, and fruit chaat: fragrant, vibrant dishes the family have been enjoying for Ramadan and Raya over the past seven years.
Every year during Ramadan and Raya, Bushra cooks beloved dishes from her homeland such as yakhni pulao, kebabs and samosas.Asked if they would consider returning to Pakistan some day, Bushra and Nasser said it was not an option owing to safety concerns.
“In Malaysia we can celebrate our religious activities and be happy,” Bushra explained. “We don’t feel afraid, we have freedom.”
Still, “we will miss home, no matter what”, especially during Aidilfitri, she added.
“I miss the idea of gathering, because when you make food together, eat and enjoy together, you will remember it all the time.” - FMT

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