Bak Kut Teh Is Malaysian Lah

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There is this stall somewhere along Old Klang Road in Kuala Lumpur. It’s run by an old Chinese couple who I just call ‘Aunty’ and ‘Uncle’. I have been going to their stall for years and I love eating the dish that they sell.
They sell only one dish. A really popular dish that is uniquely Malaysian - bak kut the. The stall may serve only one kind of dish, but they have several variations of it.
They have the traditional version which is made from pork bones, and another two which are chik kut teh (made with chicken instead of pork) and vegetarian bak kut teh (of which the base is mushroom).
Now, before some of you get all holier than thou on me, yes, I am Muslim and so I always choose the vegetarian one. It tastes great! Almost like the traditional one! I kid! I kid!
But honestly, it tastes really good. The key to a good bak kut teh is in the herbs that the soup is boiled with. So, if they get the consistency right, then perfect!
When I was growing up, being from a family that is mixed Chinese and Malay, the food we eat at home is also quite a mixed blend of both Chinese and Malay food.
Yes, you know what I’m leading to. My mother used to cook bak kut teh at home. But, again, before you all get holier than thou on me, she would make halal chik kut teh.
I would be one of the strongest supporters if bak kut teh were to be declared as one of the many ‘national’ dishes of Malaysia.
Think about it. It originated in Malaysia (or so we all claim). Everyone in Malaysia knows of it. It has been adapted into many different variations to fit the palates of different Malaysians.
Adapting dishes
Take nasi lemak for example. There is the traditional nasi lemak with sambal ikan bilis and hard-boiled egg. But different groups have adapted it to become their own.
The Chinese Malaysian community has pork curry to eat with nasi lemak. Indian Malaysian communities who are Hindu have also developed vegetarian nasi lemak.
How about yong tau foo? Traditionally a Chinese dish, it’s been adapted and is now eaten by everyone.
The Chinese Malaysian community will still have pork balls and minced pork stuffed in the lady’s fingers, while the Malay Malaysians tend to prefer fish balls and fish paste. It’s still yong tau foo. Am I right?
So, when bak kut teh becomes so popular, wouldn’t it be quite natural that the dish is adapted to suit the different communities in Malaysia just like nasi lemak and yong tau foo?
And, with mixed marriages and families like mine becoming more prevalent, it’s bound to happen (as it already has).
Food to unite
Malaysians have always used food as a base to unite our people. We love our food and we are fiercely protective of this gastronomical culture that we have.
Even foreigners see Malaysian food as something that is diverse in its differences, yet very uniting in its similarities.
Food has always been the perfect tool for unity. It is so simplified, or maybe the better word is basic, that it is easy to make it a tool for unity.
Everyone needs to eat and sitting down together for a meal is a bonding experience in any community or culture. It is also binding when we have the desire to try new dishes from different cultures.
It becomes quite disappointing and actually even sad to see how food can be politicised in Malaysia. Are we actually filled with so much hate for each other that we can even use food to polarise ourselves?
There are already enough of so many dangerous issues in Malaysia that pull us apart. We don’t need to add any more.
We are better than that. We are Malaysians.
We created the mamak culture where every single Malaysian can hang out at the same place to eat, drink, and be merry no matter their ethnicity, religious beliefs, or culture. We have our hawker centre culture where all kinds of Malaysian food is gathered in one place.
Malaysians have always loved our food culture. Even outsiders are able to appreciate the diversity of our food and can notice our pride in our food.
Food is our thing. So let’s not lose that. It should not be something that makes us fight each other. Come join me and I’ll buy you bak kut teh - whichever variation suits your fancy. - Mkini
ZAN AZLEE is a writer, documentary film-maker, journalist and academic. The Sheraton move really frustrated him but maybe after November 2022, he can start feeling better again. Visit fatbidin.com to view his work.
The views expressed here are those of the author/contributor and do not necessarily represent the views of MMKtT.

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