A Kayan Christmas Of Tradition And Yuletide Cheer

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The Yuletide celebration at Long Pilah blends Kayan culture with Christmas traditions. (Catherine Unyang pic)PETALING JAYA: For Sarawakian mother of three Catherine Unyang, childhood Christmas celebrations in her village of Long Pilah in Baram were far removed from the glimmer of baubles and fairy lights. They were much simpler.
“We didn’t have much that time and there wasn’t much we could do in our village. So how we celebrated Christmas in my younger days was to bathe in the river, catch fish, and play at the nearby waterfall,” Catherine, who is Kayan, fondly reminisced.
“It wasn’t anything grand but it was so much fun.”
The 58-year-old, who runs a handicraft store in Miri, said a lot has changed since then.
These days, come Christmas, the idyllic village in the upriver reaches of Sarawak – a four-hour drive from Miri – transforms into a vibrant kaleidoscope of faith, family, and the echoes of an ancient culture amidst Yuletide festivities.
Bouquets of bright, plastic sunflowers bedeck the pillars of the longhouses, while colourful tinsel dance from the ceiling. Homes – adorned with the quaint elegance of shells, traditional umbrellas and, of course, the Christmas tree – become welcoming havens for reunions that stretch beyond blood ties.
Catherine and her three children take a four-hour drive from Miri to Long Pilah in Baram every Christmas. (Catherine Unyang pic)“Christmas in the kampung is very different from the ones you have in the cities and towns,” Catherine, the oldest of four siblings, shared. “Everyone comes back to the village and there’s a high celebratory spirit. You would know instantly it is Christmastime.
“Also, it is not only a gathering of family members. Since we live in longhouses, everyone in the neighbourhood joins in the celebration. You don’t even have to invite people. They will just come to your house the moment they see lots of people there. It’s so beautiful to watch.”
In Catherine’s household, Christmas preparations start early. Her sister is the appointed brewer, crafting tuak, the traditional rice wine that adds an extra kick to the festivities.
The family also makes kuih dinuh, a delightful treat known for its soft and sticky texture, made from glutinous rice flour. According to Catherine, the celebrations are not complete without it. “It’s compulsory to have kuih dinuh during Christmas!”
Fun games along the longhouse corridor keep things light. (Catherine Unyang pic)Christmas Eve is marked by a grand mass at St Peter’s Long Pilah Catholic Church, bringing the community together.
On Christmas Day itself, the family gathers for a day filled with culinary delights. Special dishes, such as kuih kelupis (glutinous rice wrapped in banana leaves) and roasted wild boar curry, take centre stage.
“The men would normally go into the forest to hunt for the wild boar. We will slaughter it on Christmas Day and roast it over the fire. But wild boars are not that easy to catch. So sometimes, we take a shortcut and just buy pork instead from the market!”
What makes Catherine’s Christmas truly unique is the incorporation of Kayan cultural elements into the festivities.
Mass at St Peter’s Long Pilah Catholic church is a Christmas Eve tradition. (Catherine Unyang pic)The family, along with neighbours, engage in various activities along the longhouse corridors. They wear necklaces and rotan headpieces with distinct designs for men and women, and play traditional games.
Tekná, which are Kayan traditional songs sung by five performers, adds a musical touch. There is also an amusing show where people cover themselves in cloth and wear the hudo, a traditional Kayan face mask.
In addition, there are performances of the sape, a lute-like instrument, and tarian ngajat, a traditional Sarawakian dance that keeps everyone entertained.
Christmas at Long Pilah is not complete without a riverside picnic. (Catherine Unyang pic)For Catherine, Christmas transcends the religious, morphing into a celebration of community. It is a time when the village pulsates with life, its normally quiet lanes alive with laughter and celebration.
“As we celebrate the birth of Jesus Christ, we also celebrate the spirit of togetherness with family and friends,” she concluded. “You can just feel the spirit of Christmas in our village, and that’s something really special.” - FMT

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